Visit to the Yucatan and its major Maya archeological sites

We've spent the past six years making six to nine trips a year on other business (see Horizon Arts LLC) covering about 2,500 miles on each trip by car, but take the time to see as many Maya and Aztec archeological sites as possible. This recounting of our trips is intended to provide personal observations and perhaps some helpful hints to those who want to pay similar visits. It is not intended as an authoritative guide or advice to the traveler. If you find this site useful, send us your comments.

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Index

Background Research

To best view the Maya sites and to plan the trip efficiently and at as low a cost as possible, we researched information on the Internet, pored over maps, and used a number of guide books. Although much of the published information is less than a year old, the Yucatán Peninsula is a dynamic place and the Mexican Government has an aggressive on-going program to improve access to the Maya sites, so roads, transportation and facilities continue to expand and improve at a rapid pace. The most useful and accurate sources of information for us were:

On-Line reservation and tour information	www.travelyucatan.com www.TravelChiapas.com
Web Sites	Mexican Ministry of Tourism
	Maya Ruins
	The Yucatán Web
	About the Maya
	Mesoamerican Photo Archives
	Maya Society of Minnesota
	Lots of information about Mexico
Guide Books	"Mexico - The Rough Guide" by John Fisher Penguin Group, 1995
	"Frommer's Mexico from $35 a Day" by Marita Adair Macmillan, 1997
	"Hidden Cancún and the Yucatán" by Richard Harris, Ulysses Press, 1999 (available on Amazon.com and Ulysses Press)
	"Mexico, Places and Pleasures" by Kate Simon Harper and Row, 1988
	California State Automobile Association Mexico Guide Book
Texts	"A Forest of Kings" by Linda Schele and David Freidel William Morrow & Co., 1990 "The Blood of Kings" by Linda Schele and Mary Ellen Miller, George Braziller Inc., 1986 "The Maya" by Michael D. Coe, Thames and Hudson, 1986
	"Maya Glyphs: Reading the Past" by S.D. Houston University of California Press, 1990
	"Popul Vuh" translated by Dennis Tedlock (new translation) Simon and Schuster, 1996
Maps	California State Automobile Association
	One of the best map sets if you are driving in Mexico is the *Guia Roji - Por Las Carrateras de Mexico* available in most bookstores and the Sanders chain in Mexico.
	"Kevin Healey's Travel Map of Yucatán Peninsula", International Travel Maps, 1996/99 Edition

Travel

By air:

Most major airlines can get you to either Cancún or Mérida; both are easy starting points for Yucatán Peninsula travel. The choice of airfares and schedules are up to you. A word of caution - return flight schedules may change, so check on your flight from Mexico at least a day before your scheduled departure. Within Mexico, it is possible to get to many major Maya sites by private small plane, since many sites have their own (rough but grassy) airstrips.

By car:

You can drive your own car to Mexico through one of the border states. However, you must have evidence of Mexican insurance, and may need to leave a deposit at the border before passing through.

Since the major roads accessing Maya sites are relatively good, a rental car is a good way to cover more territory at your own pace. Rental rates are reasonable with unlimited mileage. There are several toll highways running from Cancún to Mérida and Mérida to Campeche. Most free roads are a single lane in each direction with speed limits ranging from 80km/hr (50 MPH) to 110 km/hr (70MPH).

Gasoline is approximately the same price as in the U.S., but gas stations are not as common. Keep an eye on your gas gauge. Although most gas station attendants are honest, be sure the pump is reset to zero before pumping starts. Gas is sold by the liter, and a small tip is appreciated by the attendant.

Many of the major roads have police or military checkpoints. We found the officers at these checkpoints usually friendly, and it is best to cooperate with their requests fully. Have your passport ready for inspection. As a tourist, just indicate your previous starting point and your destination, and you should not have trouble getting through without delay.

Also note that in many small towns, street signs are few and far between. In addition, street addresses may not be labeled, or in some cases, an entire block will have the same street number except that individual buildings may be called 5A, 5B, 5C etc. In many instances, even-numbered streets run north-south, odd-numbered streets run east-west.

Accommodations

Most of the guide books list a wide range of available hotels and prices. Since we traveled "off-season" we found accommodations readily available without advanced reservations in all price ranges. Furthermore, when hotels were relatively empty it was possible to negotiate prices down by around 10% under their listed rates. Hotel prices for double rooms may range from a few to a few hundred dollars a day, and you usually get what you pay for. At a minimum, your room should have a fan, a private bathroom and hot water at least during fixed times of the day. Most rooms at any price are clean, but you should ask to see the room before you take it, and check out the mattress. If you are getting around by car make sure monitored parking is available.

Hotels generally do not have potable tap water, but will provide or sell purified bottled water. We rinsed toothbrushes in tap water, with a salutary dip of the toothbrush in tequila prior to brushing.

Few hotels, especially at the lower price ranges offer laundry services. Just remember if you wash your own, that the climate is very humid and clothes take a long time to dry. A hair dryer is useful to carry along.

Mexico uses the same electrical voltage as the U.S. (110 volts, 60Hz AC), but most places only have two pronged plugs, so take a three prong to two prong converter along. TV standards are the same as the U.S.

Food

Most travelers can avoid the fabled "tourista" discomfort given some sensible precautions. General rules to follow are:

All the above aside, enjoy the wide range of tropical foods and drinks which the Yucatán has to offer!

Money

Exchange rates may vary from day to day. The best and most flexible service is available from Bancomer which will exchange cash, travelers checks and charge card debits. Bancomex allows you to use your ATM card for a fee. Hotels and casas de cambio (exchange houses) have poorer exchange rates. If the peso's value is on the decline against the dollar, use your charge card since these transactions take a few days and you may get a better exchange rate then.

Telephones

Your cellular telephone is unlikely to work in Mexico. International telephone calls can become frustrating and expensive. Hotels will charge a lot to make such calls, and the special phones which allow you to use your credit card may charge as much as a $40 fee to place the call. The Latadel system allows you to direct dial (95 prefix) to the U.S. You should purchase phone cards to make such calls or use your telephone credit card. You can also go to small shops called casetas which will place calls for you for a small charge.

A veteran traveller, Charles Doering, indicates that he got a cellular package from Digital North America which gave him 200 minutes of long distance calls throughout the Yucatan and the west coast of Mexico for $59.95 per month and worked very well.

Weather

During our visit (middle of June to the middle of July), the weather was consistently between 85°F and 98°F, with extremely high humidity. Bring lots of light clothes changes. It tended to rain heavily between about 2 p.m. and 4 p.m., but was otherwise clear. Nighttime temperatures were over 75°F. If you're traveling to the highlands bring some warmer clothing, since it is much cooler there.

At certain sites, the mosquitoes were ferocious, and often bit through several layers of clothing. If you are wearing loose weaves and very light materials, put on lots of repellent, even over those parts of your body which will be covered with clothing.

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Visits to the Yucatán Peninsula... and beyond

Introduction